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Should You Grade Your Max Verstappen Cards? PSA vs SGC & When It's Worth It

A straight-talking guide to grading Max Verstappen F1 cards — what card grading is, PSA vs SGC vs BGS, how grading cost and turnaround work, and a simple framework for deciding which cards are actually worth submitting.

By Joost Melchers Updated July 26, 2026

So you’ve got a Max Verstappen card and you’re wondering whether to send it off to be graded. This guide gives you the honest version: what grading actually does, how PSA, SGC and BGS differ, how grading cost and turnaround work, and a simple framework for deciding which cards are worth it — because for most cards in most conditions, the answer is don’t bother, and knowing why saves you money.

What card grading is

Grading is when a third-party company authenticates your card and assigns it a numeric condition score — usually on a 1 to 10 scale — then seals it in a tamper-evident slab with a unique certification number. Two things happen at once:

  • Authentication — the card is verified as genuine (and, for autos, the signature is examined). This is the real protection against the fakes that follow any superstar driver.
  • Condition grading — centering, corners, edges and surface are assessed and turned into a single grade, so a buyer doesn’t have to trust your photos.

A high grade on a desirable card can command a strong premium; the slab also makes the card far easier to sell, because the condition is no longer a matter of opinion.

PSA vs SGC vs BGS

All three are legitimate. The practical differences:

  • PSA — the largest and most liquid grader. A PSA 10 usually has the deepest buyer pool and the widest sold-comp history, which is exactly what you want at resale time. For a blue-chip modern card like a Verstappen rookie, PSA is the common default.
  • SGC — well respected, often competitive on turnaround, with a clean black “tuxedo” slab that displays well. A strong choice, especially when its cost or speed beats PSA on a given tier.
  • BGS (Beckett) — favored by collectors who like its sub-grades (separate scores for centering, corners, edges, surface). A pristine BGS 9.5 or Black Label 10 carries its own prestige.

There’s no universally “best” service — match the card to whichever company’s current cost, turnaround and resale demand fit it best.

What grading costs (and why it’s the whole decision)

Grading is priced in tiers, not a single flat fee. Each company sets a service level by the card’s declared value and how fast you want it back: a slow economy/bulk tier is cheapest, and express or high-value tiers cost more and return faster. On top of the grading fee you’ll pay return shipping and insurance.

Fees change over time, so price it on PSA’s or SGC’s current fee schedule before you submit — don’t rely on an old number. The single most important idea in this whole guide:

The grading cost has to make sense against what the graded card is actually worth. If grading costs more than the premium a graded copy earns over a raw one, you’re spending money to lose money.

To run those numbers on a specific card, use our grading ROI calculator — it weighs the raw price, the likely graded price and the fee so you can see whether a submission pays off before you send it.

The decision framework

Before you grade anything, ask four questions in order:

  1. Is the card desirable enough? Rookies, numbered refractors, Sapphire and autos clear this bar; common base cards usually don’t.
  2. Is it clean enough to grade high? Grading rewards top grades. If the card has soft corners, off-centering or surface scratches, a low grade can lock in the flaws. Pre-check centering with our card centering tool and inspect corners/edges/surface under good light — the same four factors a grader uses. Not sure which fields on a listing actually matter? How to read a Verstappen listing walks the five that do.
  3. Does the graded premium beat the fee? Compare live sold listings for the graded version against the raw version. If a PSA 10 sells for meaningfully more than raw-plus-fee, it’s a candidate.
  4. Do you need the authenticity guarantee? For autographs and higher-priced cards, the slab’s protection against fakes can justify grading on its own.

If a card doesn’t clear questions 1 and 2, keep it raw, protect it well, and move on.

Which Verstappen cards to grade

Because Topps holds the official Formula 1 license, the grade-worthy Verstappen cards all sit inside the Topps F1 program:

For how these fit across his career, the year-by-year card hub maps every era, and what drives Verstappen card value covers how grade interacts with price.

How to submit

The mechanics are similar at every company: create an account, fill out a submission form (declaring each card’s value to pick the right tier), protect each card in a penny sleeve inside a semi-rigid holder (never a hard toploader for grading), and ship insured. Then you wait out the tier’s turnaround. Read each grader’s current instructions before packing — requirements shift.

Buying already-graded cards

Often the smarter move — especially at a serious price point — is to skip grading and buy the card already slabbed. You see the exact grade, the authenticity is settled, and you avoid submission risk. Graded Verstappen cards trade on the live eBay market, not Amazon, so the rail below opens current listings: PSA 10 and SGC Chrome, graded 2020 rookies, graded refractors and autographs — plus raw candidates if you’d rather buy sharp and grade yourself. Always compare live sold comps for the exact card, parallel and grade before you buy.

New to all this? Start with collecting Max Verstappen & F1 cards for the big picture, check the release calendar for what’s current, and see the Red Bull Racing hub and the Max Verstappen player page for the story behind the cards.

Find these cards on eBay

Refractors, numbered parallels and autos trade as singles on eBay, not Amazon — these open live listings for each. Buy graded (PSA or SGC) for anything at a serious price point.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I grade my Max Verstappen cards?
Only when the graded card is likely to be worth clearly more than a raw copy plus the grading fee — and when the card is genuinely clean enough to earn a high grade. Grading a common base card in average condition usually costs more than it adds. Grading a sharp 2020 Topps Chrome rookie, a low-numbered refractor, or an on-card autograph often makes sense because the high-grade premium and the authenticity guarantee are real. Check live sold listings for the graded version versus the raw version before you submit.
Is PSA or SGC better for Formula 1 cards?
Both are trusted, third-party grading companies, and both grade modern Topps Formula 1 cards. PSA is the largest and most liquid brand — a PSA 10 typically has the deepest buyer pool and the widest sold-comp history, which matters for resale. SGC is well respected, often has competitive turnaround, and its tuxedo slab displays well. BGS (Beckett) is also used, especially by collectors who like its sub-grades. For a superstar modern card you plan to resell, PSA's liquidity is the usual default; pick the service whose current cost, turnaround and resale demand fit your specific card.
How much does it cost to grade a card?
Grading is priced in tiers, not a single flat fee. Each company sets a service level based on the card's declared value and how fast you want it back — a slow economy/bulk tier is the cheapest, and express or high-value tiers cost more and return faster. Fees change over time, so always price it on PSA's or SGC's current fee schedule before you commit, and add return shipping and insurance. The key idea: the grading cost has to make sense against what the graded card is actually worth.
Which Verstappen cards are worth grading?
The strongest candidates are his 2020 Topps Chrome Formula 1 rookies (the modern debut-year anchor), numbered Chrome refractors and other scarce parallels, Chrome Sapphire cards, and any on-card autograph. These are the cards where a high grade commands a meaningful premium and where the authenticity guarantee protects you against fakes. A common base Chrome card out of a retail blaster, in average shape, is usually not worth the fee.
Does grading increase a card's value?
It can, but it's conditional. A high grade (like a PSA 10 or SGC 10) on a desirable card often sells for more than the same card raw, and the slab guarantees condition and authenticity. But a low grade can lock in a card's flaws and sell for little more than raw — sometimes less, after fees. Grading adds value when the card is clean and desirable enough to earn a top grade; it doesn't rescue a damaged or low-demand card.